Discover the Salt Path and find some of the best Exmoor dog walks through breathtaking coastal and moorland scenery.

Written with local insight by a dog walker and Exmoor enthusiast, this guide brings you two of the area's most scenic and soulful routes—starting from Porlock Weir and exploring a tranquil circular walk to Culbone Church, and a breathtaking cycle loop through Malmsmead and Lorna Doone country.

As someone who hikes the trails around Exmoor regularly with my dogs, I recently visited both routes to soak in the ever-changing scenery and take fresh photos, which you’ll find throughout this post. Whether you’re a keen walker, a cyclist, or a fan of the new film The Salt Path, you’ll find these routes full of beauty, peace, and cinematic drama.

Walking Into Wildness: Porlock Weir to Culbone Church Circular

Distance: Approx. 5 miles

Time: 2–3 hours leisurely

Terrain: Undulating coastal paths, forest trails,

Dog-Friendly: Yes—some livestock areas, so leads may be needed

Start/End: Porlock Weir

St Buenos Church

This is one of my favourite dog walks when in Porlock—peaceful, shaded, and brimming with wild beauty. The walk starts from the characterful harbour at Porlock Weir, where I often pause for a coffee with my dog before heading into the woods.

From here, you follow the South West Coast Path, now more famous than ever thanks to The Salt Path. When walking this route, I think of the book’s themes—resilience, simplicity, and the healing power of nature. The woodland here feels ancient, full of mossy stones, twisted oaks, and the sound of hidden streams. My dog absolutely love it—there are plenty of scents, shaded spots, and the occasional squirrel to get excited about!

Please note: The route to Culbone Church is uphill and follows an uneven, often rocky path through ancient woodland. While it’s incredibly rewarding, it can be challenging for some, so good footwear is strongly advised—especially after rain.

After about 45 minutes, you’ll reach Culbone Church, tucked deep in the woods with no road access. It’s incredibly quiet and atmospheric. There are a couple of benches within the church grounds to stop for a snack and water break with the dogs—it’s a moment of stillness I always treasure. The church is small enough to miss if you’re not paying attention, but it’s one of those places that seems to carry stories in its stones.

The return route loops inland through Yearnor Wood, where dappled sunlight filters through the trees and bluebells bloom in spring. You’ll pass some ancient farm buildings and rejoin forest tracks that eventually lead you back to Porlock Weir. It's a well-marked and satisfying circuit and perfect for dog walkers looking for a peaceful yet rewarding adventure.

Pedal to the Past: Cycling to Malmsmead and Lorna Doone Country

Distance: Approx. 18-mile loop

Time: 3–4 hours

Terrain: Hilly, quiet lanes and moorland roads

Start/End: Porlock Weir

Highlights: Malmsmead, Oare, Doone Valley, panoramic views

If you enjoy cycling, this is one of the most scenic loops Exmoor has to offer. I rode it last week on an e-bike and was blown away by the quiet beauty and big skies. It’s a decent workout, but incredibly rewarding. Ive added details of local e-bike and mountain bike hire below for those wishing to give this stunning route a try.

Start by pedalling up the Old Toll Road from Porlock Weir—a more forgiving climb than the fearsome Porlock Hill! As you ascend, you’ll get glorious views of Porlock Bay behind you.

From the moor, head across to Oare and descend into Malmsmead, where the past feels very close. This is Lorna Doone country—steeped in romance, rebellion, and raw beauty. The valley is utterly tranquil, with its shallow river, stone bridge, and surrounding hills. I always stop here for a break, letting the dog stretch her legs while I grab something from the tea rooms.

The birds love to say hello at the local tea room.

The return leg winds over Brendon Common, open moorland where the wind carries the call of skylarks and buzzards overhead. With Exmoor ponies sometimes grazing nearby, it feels like a scene from another time. Then it’s a gentle descent back toward the wooded lower slopes near Porlock.

It’s a proper Exmoor day out—challenging in places but full of moments that stay with you. If you're cycling with a dog in tow like I do, be aware of sheep and roaming ponies, and always keep your pup secure and calm.

Saddle Up for Scenic Thrills with Exmoor Adventures

Why not swap your walking boots for two wheels and discover Exmoor from a fresh perspective? Based in Porlock, Exmoor Adventures offers high-quality E-bike and mountain bike hire, perfect for all abilities. Their E-bikes take the strain out of the hills, letting you focus on soaking up the breathtaking scenery—from heather-clad moors and ancient woodlands to sweeping coastal views. Whether you're riding solo or planning a group outing, their expert team will kit you out and point you toward the best local trails. Top tip: always carry water, wear layers (Exmoor weather changes fast!), and don’t forget your camera—some of the vistas are too good not to capture. Cycling really is one of the best ways to connect with the landscape and cover more ground while still feeling immersed in nature.

To book your ride, visit www.exmooradventures.co.uk or give them a call on 01643 703230.

Exmoor’s Dramatic Heart: Scenery That Stirs the Soul

There’s something profoundly calming about Exmoor. Whether I’m walking alone, with friends, or with my dogs, the wildness and stillness here always works its magic.

From the tidal wetlands of Porlock Marshes to the ancient oak woodlands that stretch across the hillsides, this landscape is endlessly varied and deeply soothing. In summer, the moors glow with purple heather and golden gorse. In winter, sea mist rolls in across the cliffs, making every walk feel like an escape into myth.

Walking or cycling these paths, I often feel like I’ve stepped into the pages of The Salt Path—not just in location, but in spirit. There's a quiet power in the land here, something that pulls you in and helps you reset.

Paws and Pint Stops in Porlock Weir

After a day of exploring, Porlock Weir is the perfect spot to unwind with your four-legged friend. This charming harbour village offers several dog-friendly pubs and cafés, where you and your pup will receive a warm welcome. Sit outside and enjoy a drink or a hearty meal while taking in stunning views across the harbour and out to sea—it’s a truly peaceful place to relax and soak up the coastal atmosphere. Many places offer water bowls and treats for dogs, so your companion can enjoy a break too. Whether you're sipping a local cider or tucking into fresh seafood, Porlock Weir combines great food, friendly faces, and an unbeatable view—ideal for walkers and waggers alike.

Here are three dog-friendly spots worth visiting:

🐾 The Bottom Ship Inn

A cosy, 15th‑century harbour‑side pub with real ales, local cider and hearty homemade meals. Dogs are welcome everywhere—including the comfy inside by the roaring fire or at the outdoor tables overlooking the Bristol Channel.

☕ Harbour House Coffee Shop

A family‑run café in the heart of the harbour, perfect for morning barista coffee, deluxe hot chocolate, savoury bakes, and homemade cakes. With indoor and outdoor seating looking over the water, it’s a peaceful, dog-welcoming spot for a break.

🍕 Porlock Weir Hotel

Set right on the waterfront, this stylish and welcoming hotel offers freshly made wood-fired pizzas, light bites, and a great selection of drinks. Their terrace is perfect for enjoying a sunny afternoon with spectacular sea views—and dogs are more than welcome to join you.

With these lovely spots, both you and your dog can refuel in comfort, right by the sea.

All are within a few minutes’ walk of the harbour car park and perfect for reflecting on your walk—especially if, like me, you’ve just walked a section made all the more iconic by The Salt Path.

Following the Footsteps of The Salt Path: A New Lens on the Coast Path

The new film The Salt Path has brought global attention to one of Britain’s most treasured long-distance trails. Based on the moving memoir by Raynor Winn, it tells the story of walking the South West Coast Path as a way of healing, reconnecting, and rediscovering joy.

While the book’s journey continues far beyond Porlock, this stretch—particularly around Culbone—is one of the most atmospheric and secluded. Watching the film, I recognised the quiet woodland paths and open views that I walk so often with my dogs. Now, visitors are retracing those steps and finding that same connection to the land.

Top Tips for Salt Path Explorers

Bring plenty of water—for you and your pup!

Use a lead in livestock areas (you’ll encounter sheep and ponies on both routes).

Carry a map or GPS, as signal can be patchy.

Start early for the best light and quietest paths.

Don’t rush—this isn’t about distance, it’s about the journey.

Final Thoughts: Walk the Salt Path for Yourself

As someone who’s walked these trails through every season, I can say this area never loses its magic. The combination of sea, moor, and woodland makes Porlock Weir a standout destination—and the connection to The Salt Path only deepens that experience.

Whether you’re here with your dog, your bike, or your boots, I hope you fall in love with the landscape just as I have. Take your time, breathe deep, and let Exmoor show you the way.

We’ll be sharing more of our favourite Exmoor walks right here on the blog in the very near future—so whether you’re planning your next adventure or just daydreaming about the moor, keep an eye out for our upcoming posts!